The Uzi is my favorite SMG. When I got my first one, I was amazed to see how accurate they are despite what the "experts" told me about open bolt guns being inaccurate. I find it to be more than accurate enough for my needs. The range I shoot at only allows FA fire up to around 40 yards on the plinking range. At that distance, I can easily hit cans with the iron sights. I longed for a decent red dot to put on the Uzi but all the mounting systems that I looked at were bulky and ugly. I decided to make my own mount using the Tasco Optima which has now been replaced by the Firepoint and JP's JPoint sight. The mount is basically the same but now I use the superior DocterSight. This is the FIRST and only setup that truly allows cowitnessing of a red dot optic and the iron sights with absolutely no obstructions.

The Optima/Firepoint/Jpoint are made from plastic and the original Tasco's had a high failure rate. The Docter is made from stainless steel, aluminum, brass and glass. Both sights are mounted via two holes but on the Docter the holes are more towards the middle of the sight. Depending on the mount, you may be able to use both sights on the particular mount. While my mounts are specifically designed for the DocterSight, you could mount an Optima/Firepoint/Jpoint on my mount and it would be just a little forward.

This setup allows for the following advantages:
  • Maintain the same cheek weld that you would with iron sights. No re-learning or re-adjusting your face on the stock when using the optics. When was the last time you've seen an entry team shooting their SMG's with their head's up? You need to sink your face into the stock for maximum control of the weapon. If you are all about spray and pray or due to physical limitations you can't get your head that low, then maybe you need to look into a higher mounted optic.
  • Only co-witnessing optic setup - The red dot appears on the tip of the front sight post. It is the lowest profile optics setup available for the Uzi - You can still see the curvature of the cocking knob. Below is a picture of my mount on the left and a Docter sight sitting on a factory Docter weaver/picatinny mount on the right. You can see that the factory Docter mount is much higher than my mount. If you made a rail for the factory Docter mount to go on an Uzi topcover it would obviously be too high. It would NOT cowitness properly like mine does.
  • Never worry about "washout". While the Docter provides a great red dot and I have never had a problem with it not being bright enough, IF I did ever point it at something with a very bright background there could be a possibility of the dot "washing out". This is not a problem w/ a co-witnessing setup since you can instantly pick up on the front sight if need be.
  • Another advantage of being able to cowitness on the Uzi is that you are not losing your dual range functionality of the flip aperature sight. I personally don't shoot anything beyond 100M with my Uzi's. I drill out the 200 M aperature to be very large and use my Docter for close up work with that enlarged aperature. For further distances, I can flip back down to the unmodified 100M aperature if needed. With most other mounts you will lose this capability. Even the mounts that offer a see through setup are hard to look through and are obtrusive.

  • There is absolutely NO obstruction to any of the Uzi's controls. You can easily charge the bolt with either hand. Still use brass catchers with little modifications to the brass catcher.
  • Lowest LOS (Line of Sight): the closer you are to the bore's axis, the less you have to compensate for the bullet's trajectory.
  • Looks GREAT!!

The DocterSight has an amazing battery life. I had one on one of my Uzi's for over a year and never changed the battery and ended up selling that particular one as it was a 3.5 MOA and I prefer the 7 MOA.

Note: I have noticed that with the eye closer to the Docter that the dot appears smaller. Like if you hold it out at arms length like on a pistol. Bottom line, if you put a 3.5 on an Uzi, with this setup, the dot appears to be very tiny and while it may be great for precise work, I find it hard to find the dot quickly. It all depends on what kind of shooting you will doing. If you plan on shooting mostly below 100 yards, get the 7 MOA.

Making the DocterSight Mount involves:

If you do not have the resources to make your own DocterSight Mount, contact me for availability and options.

    ****My mounts are not screwed on. Mine are welded and refinished.****
  • Cutting the steel stock
  • Square it up in the mill
  • Drill out the mounting holes on the mill
  • TIG weld the mount to the topcover - currently done by a professional welder - see the pic below
  • Note: the MINI's, require additional mill work before and after welding.
  • Sandblast topcover/mount, cocking knob, topcover "plate" - this is one of the most annoying and time consuming steps
  • Parkerize topcover - to match the Vector finish as seen in the picture above
  • Molycoat if requested to match IMI black - additional charge

Picture below shows Docter Optics ready topcovers completed. All these match the Vector parkerized finish with the exception of the middle one that has been Molycoated.

The picture below is old. Current topcovers are drilled and tapped to use the metric screws that come with the DocterSight.

Some tips/suggestions:
  • Drill out your 200M aperature to be very large so there is less obstruction when using the DocterSight. After doing this, you won't even notice the rear aperature anymore and just see the skinny front sight post with the dot on top. I don't think you will be engaging any targets at 200M with your Uzi. You can always flip back to your 100M aperature for more precise work - why I don't know as the DocterSight has always been more than adequate for me.
  • Make sure that you check for any side-side play behind the front sight ears and in front of the rear sight ears. Most likely, you will have a little. Squeeze the topcover in a little on a vise and make sure you protect it with something. After doing this, you can have an accurate setup that will repeat its zero.

There has been some questions in regards to disassembling and re-assembling the topcover. I've provided a picture of an Uzi ratcheting topcover that has been partially disassembled. This is just my experience to taking it apart.

1. Unscrew the knob's screw
2. Remove extension spring
3. The whole thing pretty much comes apart from here.
4. Make sure you don't lose the ratcheting pawl. This is the part that goes into the ratcheting grooves in the topcover. If you are still unclear as to what part that is, look at part #52 on my full size Uzi diagram page.
5. Put parts #52-54 in the destination topcover. I recommend that you position it so that the pawl is in the retracted position. This is easily done by having part 54 in the rearward position as seen in my picture below. With part 54 in this rearward position, it forces the spring (part 53) to go forward.
6. Screw the knob's screw back on to part 54 in this position. If you tighten it too tight some topcovers won't move freely but some will - you will have to see for yourself.
7. Now move the knob forward and put the extension spring back on.

Some Feedback...

"Arrived yesterday. You guys are missing out on a great item! The work is really first class. Matched the Vector coating exactly and it even fit tight without adjusting.
And no, he is not paying me to say this!! - Tom"

"I love mine too! Heck, I gotta order a third one now for the new addition! - Compuvette"

"I'm not missing out! I've got one of his top covers on my Mini and it's great. - RoverDave"

"The top cover came in today and it looks awesome! Thanks again for all
the help, I really do appreciate it. - Vu"